Sunday, 9 February 2014

Iguazu falls walks

Today we walked over the tops of the waterfalls and it was a real privilege to see the San Martin fall that was centre stage in the film The Mission. In the film, Jeremy  Irons as the Jesuit priest Father Gabriel, was strapped to a crucifix and sent over the falls.

We saw many wonders today despite being in a bit of a conga line of tourists. It was a jaw dropping experience to be on top of the Devils Throat  and witness that awesome power plunging into the cauldron below. On top of the falls were rainbows and the butterflies carried on regardless.

Kate gets 5 stars as she managed to get us a change of room from a 'jungle' room out the back ( read car park) to one of the best rooms in the hotel with a magnificent view across the entire falls and across the river to Brazil. Wow!

we are enjoying the Spanglish - today's classic was on the restaurant menu - 'Ask the waiter about the soup's day'- cute - especially as no one is having soup in this 40 degree heat.

Mum loved the harpist playing in the restaurant and of course 'don't cry for me Argentina' was part of his repertoire - both nights- poor fellow!

Tomorrow we have the morning to stroll back for one more waterfall and then it's back to wonderful Buenes Aires.




Saturday, 8 February 2014

The Devil's Throat- Iguazu Falls

We had a great hotel in buenes aires. Our minor complaint (as the thoroughly spoilt always have) is the strange key system they have for their doors. Kate, being in business systems mode asked the concierge why they would use this different system, wondering what the benefit could be. He said without blinking, 'because the owner is a moron.' Love that front-of-desk frankness. We have had a confusing time getting used to the money exchange. You do get a sense that Argentina's money is in chaos. The official rate differs to the unofficial rate - or the 'blue market'-  which is offered at restaurants, hotels and shops and then there's the black market where you will be offered even better rates by badly dressed guys on street corners. Rates vary from seller to seller - all you can be sure of is that the banks will rip you off! So it's a touch of home:) So we've been dealing in pesos and US dollars and US dollars all look the same so I am rather upset at giving some $100 tips instead of $1! Ouch - an expensive lesson.

Anyway got up at 3am this morning to catch our flight to Iguazu Falls into 38 degrees (from sleeting on Tuesday). Mums a trooper and keeping up with it all and sometimes we've had to be the disciplinarians and get her to slow down- no easy feat but she is pretty exhausted now and planning a quiet day tomorrow with 2 beautiful small guided tours.
We are staying right in front of the falls. We went for a decent walk today and saw its tremendous power through canopies of rainforest and past cute beaver like coatis - cute and cuddly unless you have food then they'll take a sizeable bite of it and your hand.

Iguassu is not just one waterfall but many strung together and here are a few stats-niagara falls horseshoe drop is 790 metres wide, Victoria falls is 1079 metres (and technically the biggest because of its drop) and iguazu falls are a whopping 2.7 Kms- get your head around that! and they are all pretty spectacular but there is a big band of them at 2 locations-with the most impressive one - in fact described in lonely planet as one of the world's most extraordinary sights- called the devils throat. We have not yet been there but seen it in the distance and it looks truly terrifying and breathtaking.- tomorrow's excursion.

A gentle boat ride this afternoon was really a little unnerving as you are pushed downstream by the current and can see in the distance the lip of the falls as the water gets a little whiter and the guide paddles a little harder and the falls sound a little louder. We saw some of the wildlife and fauna- a baby toucan,  some turtles and gorgeous electric blue and pale yellow birds.

I must add here Kate has been brilliant with her Spanish- dredging it up from 30 years ago when she was thrown in the Spanish depend in Costa Rica. She's just been great with taxi drivers and negotiating prices and a whole range of stuff to do with money and exchange rates and so on. What a gal!  We recommend her as a travelling companion to anyone!


Friday, 7 February 2014

Buenes Aires- Paris of South America

Wow what a fascinating city - we only wish we had allowed ourselves a week here at least. Fantastic Parisian style buildings ( all but 2 Spanish ones being pulled down as part of the response to pulling away from Spain in 1810.  Also gorgeous Art Deco apartments and we are staying in a lovely area .

Today a highlight was the cemetery of Recoletta- I never thought a cemetery and mausoleums could be so fascinating- you can see the coffins through the glass some of which is broken and full of weeds and cobwebs- so all a bit creepy but also fascinating - the wealthy of buenes aires employed architects to build the mausoleums so some of them are in the French style, some in Art Deco, semi- brutalist etc. - these styles reflected the homes they lived in. Eva person is of course buried here.  the.best part are the guardian cats - the locals feed them in the morning and at closing time. We came across a paricularly affectionate one standing next to the statue of the dog. There are streets of these 'homes for the dead' often 2 or 3 stories deep to accommodate up to 20 people.

We visited the museum of Latin American modern art - a history of 20th century art with an argentine  perspective - exciting stuff.

Tomorrow we head to Iguassu falls which mum has been very keen to see for a number of years- it is the longest - or widest- falls in the world and of course the main character in the magnificent film The mission - apart from Jeremy Irons of course!

Ciao for now!


Thursday, 6 February 2014

Cape Horn

An entry worth it's own- Cape Horn - we landed on the cape and climbed to the top to see where 10,000 souls lay.
As the sea was a relative millpond for the Horn, we were lucky enough to then go around it- so wonderful for our sailor Kate and mum who's dad went around it in 1899 - as a 14 year old stowaway on a ship from Dunedin  to New York. (He thought he was going to Sydney!)

Tierra del Fuego and Ushuaia

Hi again folks
We now have some reception - not, apparently, enough to upload photos. A shame as we have been treated to some lovely sights. As we waited to board the cruise we visited the naval museum in Punta arenas and discovered that 62% of chile is in Antarctica! The Chileans were the party that rescued Shackleton and his crew from their near disaster and we also learnt that before the dats of GPS, Kate used the log system that had been in use for hundreds of years as the standard for measuring the distance travelled in a boat- in the old days they literally threw a log over the stern - it was on a rope. Cath threw a metal instrument but it had the same ability by the way it swivelled in the water to indicate distance.
After boarding we settled in our luxury cabins and the next day set off in zodiacs past sea lions and icebergs to look at the amazing variety of flora that flourishes here despite the cold- from hardened lichens to delicate rainforest ecosystems. Unfortunately the Canadian beaver was introduced and with no predators it has decimated the forest in parts (there is a culling program). Having no predators it's skin is less oily from lack of stress so it's fur is no good for using in clothing! To get rid of the beavers they introduced weasels which have no interest in beavers ( I thought that was a uniquely Australian thing to do) and then they introduced minxes- Hayley you have to look up these three animals. (Use Tierra del Fuego and the animal name in your keyword search). We then chugged off to see penguins and cormorants at close hand-amazing to watch them - cormorants - building their nest- the male passing bits stolen from another nest to the female who is sitting in it with the chicks. All were quite happily oblivious to us. The teenage Magellanic penguins (Hayley what is their other name?) have their own beach having been expelled from the nests. They are waiting for the next current that may send them to the pacific or the Atlantic - it's a lucky dip for them.
There were a number of tribes in the area - the most amazing were the Yamana  who lived naked- they covered themselves with seal fat. The women dived with their children for sea shells, they owned the canoe and managed the fires. Can't imagine how babies survived a day.
We were lucky enough to see a glacier and heard it 'calving' - bits breaking off - like a tree falling - but didn't see it calving.
We are now in Ushuaia enjoying their fine summer weather - sleeting/ snowing intermittently. We
Went to a divine seafood restaurant - which needs to be transplanted to Sydney - pleasant service,  magnificent food and wine.
Head off to buenes aires this afternoon

Friday, 31 January 2014

Mirador Cuernos- the Horns lookout and the Blue Lake

Apologies for delay in writing to you - we know our audience awaits with baited breath for the next instalment

We all have 270 degree views of the mountains and the surrounding steppe - the small rounded hills as follows:(I'm sorry but my photos are not uploading - this is not the place for photos NOT to upload! However if you check in to the blog after we return to aust or when we get reception please do)

I had no idea all the classics are very close to each other - you can see them here ( see the web for an idea - www.tierrapatagonia.com) on the left is the Paine Grande - rising about 4,700 metres above the lake to 5000 metres. Then the famous Horns of Paine and then one I can't remember on the far right the Torres or towers - the south tower is obscured from the hotel but you can see the central and north towers. In the 1950s a British mountaineering group were in a race to the top of the central tower with an Italian group. The Brits out manoeuvred the Italians and claimed the victory of climbing the highest of the towers. However.....the Italians were not daunted and decided to stay on and tackle the south tower, presumably while the Brits sat back on their laurels over a G and T. It turned out that unbeknownst to anyone the south tower was in fact 50 metres taller than the central tower and so the Italians had a last laugh over a Campari!

In the morning mum stayed at the hotel to have a relaxing poodle in the pool and a spa whilst cath and I forwent the horse riding for the excursion along the steppe to the base of the Horns. Wow - those massive structures rose wonderfully above us.


We were treated to a flock of 10 condors circling as well as guanacos in small quite tame flocks by the roadside.

We left the car for our 2 hour hike to the horns lookout or mirador Cuernos . We were buffeted by winds that Kate thought were 80-90 km per hour.

We passed tough scrub and burnt out trees - Sadly there was a terrible brushfire here accidentally caused by an Israeli camper - 18000 hectares were burnt out of 224000 for the park. It burnt in the park for 1 month and in the surrounding area for 3 months. It's effects were everywhere we went.  We noticed that on the front door of the information centre there was a sign in Hebrew explaining camper responsibilities so there is no excuses though we think it should have been in all languages. As the
trees are not used to fire it will take 50 years to regenerate.

We passed Lago Nordenskjold with its black sands beaches and the winds whipped up a spray that even Kate with her years of sailing experience had never seen.

The horns as you know them (and if you don't google image Cuernos del Paine or horns of Paine )have looked like that for 12 million years - they were formed by Glacial action like everything here but originally were below the surface whilst now they are 5 km high! The lighter rock of the horns are granite that is hardened lava and the dark is another stone that was baked that way by the lava.The geology is fascinating.
At this stage I was decidedly grateful to Anne for suggesting a second battery- thanks Anne - You warned I could run out at a crucial sunset - here I ran ran out at midday so I was very glad to have my backup.

In the afternoon we went with mum to the blue lagoon where we saw some fantastic wildlife including a native grey fox, groups of emu like birds called rias and flamingos!!hard to imagine a
bird you associate with the tropics or African savanna here but there they were minding their own business.

As the sun doesn't set until 10pm it's a pleasure to watch the ever changing light though very disruptive to dinner as we have to record the changes.

Today we took a lovely drive under the mountains and along some gorgeous lakes- luminescent green and blue because of the lime in the rocks.  We saw a skunk- completely oblivious to the 5 photographers with massive (read World Cup type cameras)approaching it from all sides.more about the talents of skunks later.

We then drove along the edge of Lago Pehoe and made our way to the info centre where mum got to pat a puma - well a photo of one)  and we had a delightful picnic by the lake in a manner to which we could become accustomed- ie rich folk on holidays. Our guide Martin was fantastic - a mine of information and he was very nice to mum - which made him extra handsome!
From the picnic we went to Lago grey where a glacier sits at the head - we saw a brief and distant view of the glacier and Kate and I saw our first iceberg. I meant to ask how old it was as. I remember Laura saying the blue ice in the icebergs of Iceland were 10,000 years old. We also saw the Paine Massif from a different angle and it glowed.

Tonight it was off to the entrancia  (ranch) for a typical Chilean BBQ- ie if you are a very rich Chilean I think!  We were eating in the dining area and saw a skunk outside.i decided to get a closer look and as I came closer the guide and the owner were anxiously knocking on the window to stay back. The skunk decided to waddle up to me which I thought was terribly cute and a photo opportunity when I heard yelling and frantic knocking on the window just as the skunk picked up his pace and ran at me. I turned around to see about 8 people madly waving me in! I got the idea to run for it and launched myself into the dining room in the nick of time! Pepe le peu went back to grazing
whilst I was informed that the skunk can spray a blinding (not to mention stinking) concoction from several metres away- close shave!

Must away and prepare to depart this wonderful place as we head south to Tierra del Fuego- land of fire!

Very sorry for lack of photos.











Wednesday, 29 January 2014

Heaven

Writing to you from the most spectacular spot on earth!

The 2.45 am start was worth it. We got to the Santiago airport and boarded our 5.50 am plane which took us 20 degrees south to Punta Arenas- a hub for exploring this magnificence.
It was cold enough that there were islands with snow on them - these were on the edge of the filigree that is southern Chile and we got a taste of things to come.

We were then picked up in a private van and took the 4.5 hour trip to Tierra Patagonia with complimentary canned mushroom sandwiches- yum yum. The land starts off flat with small nuggety trees bent to the south west by the permanent north East 'Patagonian breeze'- which today was an average 80 km per hour. The colours are totally gorgeous- earthy greens and browns with aqua and green lakes and lagunas as we made our way along the "Road of the end of the world"







We passed stumpy forests whose trees were covered in a beardy ancient lichen and the roadside was littered with gorgeous delicate purple and pink flowers - possibly the humble gladioli?


Things got serious about half way in when we turned a corner and saw a first glimpse of our destination- Torres del Paine.  



Well this is not quite the first glimpse but a better piccy. 


We dropped by the driver's town- Punta Natalas - a fishing and tourism base. Is this a representation of the melting ice which they must surely feel the effects of this far south?



The mountains were edging up on us and we eventually swung north and the famous spires came into view-majestic wonders.




These are the new three Spires- sorry my photo download is mucking up so can't share all I want to. 

Not too far up the road is the hotel - Tierra Patagonia which you can see here buried in the landscape.(no you can't because the photo thing is not talking properly). 

It sits on Lago Sarmiento and the spectacular view here is from mums bedroom! Bloody amazing wouldn't you agree?
(You would if you could see it so I will show you an almost identical one)




We have already seen some of the animal life - rias - a type if emu and guanicas- cousins of the llama. 

We went for a short walk down to the lake and the wind was ferocious- wow- you have to be tough out here - but not inside - where you can be as soft and flabby as you please. Here is the lounge and dining and bar which we plan to test out shortly.





 We'll waddle off to the spa later and report back to you later. 




However I must away as it is the golden hour and time for photographs......
Very hard to shoot west and do it justice. Bernie we are coming back so you can see this gorgeous photogenic place. Start a new holiday account today!!

Can't download my sunset so here are our bathroom doors instead


Even the bath has a panorama.

Goodnight- must prepare ourselves for horse riding tomorrow.eek!!









Tuesday, 28 January 2014

Wow the Andes! We were picked up by our guide for a day trip to the Andes.

We were fine until about 1800 metres when the 20 odd hairpin bends got to us so we had a pit stop and we're greeted by a very companionable ...stray dog


After a nice chat with Pepe "le peu" we carried on above the tree line - things were getting seriously high with spectacular views a camera can't capture.

Finally, 60 hairpin bends later, and a 2.5 km altitude climb, we arrived at 3000 metres above sea level in amongst the Gods and their messengers - the condors.  Those magnificent  creatures circled above, one of them must have had a wingspan of 2 metres





Mum stayed at the ski lodge -the dot in the picture on the right



while kate and I took the chairlift to the top of the field. What a view.









in 1954 some local ranchers found a perfectly preserved "mummy" body of a small boy in the snow in the mountain (behind Kate).. He had been sacrificed to the gods 500 years before (100 years before the spaniards arrived). His body had been preserved in the perpetual snow and is now preserved at the national museum.  Poor little tacker.





We also saw wild horses and mules on tHe hillsides and Kate would like to add - (for Al's sake), some macho wild rancheros riding horses down the vertical slopes. They certainly did look like the real thing!

The mountains do make ours look like small bumps. We were pretty exhausted and mum has done amazing things on 4 hours sleep. We've put her to bed and are having sisterly chats by the pool over 'piscos' - the national drink! We're pretty pisco'ed!  Tomorrow we awaken at 2:45 to fly to Punta Arenas (end of world) to then make the bus trip (erg) to Torres del Paine - where we get more 'piscos' - yay!

Kate's beading by the pool.  Much like twisting. But cooler.  And requires academic capability.

Monday, 27 January 2014

Santiago in the morning


We started today with a tour of Santiago which was good to get our bearings. Santiago is very flat and was settled for that reason, oh and Spain's thirst for gold ( in which they were thwarted by Mother Nature). However there are dramatic and sudden hills one of which we climbed to get an expansive view of the city and it's skyscrapers. However the Andes were nowhere in sight because, surrounded by mountains, there isn't a lot of outlets for the smog. We visited the presidential palace where mum's charm offensive was in full swing as you can see. Here she is with the tour guide and the policeman who was very happy to help out.

What holiday is not complete without a visit to the cathedral ( where the local street dogs happily wander in and out, or generally lounge around as they do outside). They are largely in good shape and we'll fed by the locals. 



Outside the cathedral there was a prophet like man gaining the attention of the crowds- basically blessing chile AND Peru as today in The Hague a very important decision was to be handed down over a land/ocean dispute that has caused tension and even war between the countries for 140 years.  32 km of Coast is at stake. In fact its decision, just handed down has effectively changed the oceanic borders. 

The Biblioteca National was too much to pass by and we saw a gorgeous exhibition using old card catalogue entries. I admit that the librarian in me was a bit pursed lipped as old card catalogues have their vital uses still. However, without going into a reference lecture, I know the good librarians of Santiago would protect such sources if they needed to. It was hard to ignore the charms of the art work and I got a sense that the artists loved the medium. 





The Biblioteca Americana within the building was set up in the 19th century and is one of the most important libraries in South America. 




After a gorgeous late lunch we wandered back to the hotel room and once more admired the charming view



























Sunday, 26 January 2014

We've arrived in Santiago

The view from the plane as we approached Santiago is quite spectacular and a taste of our adventures to come with high craggy snow capped mountains that must be full of local legend and history. Santiago itself is quite dry and a mixture of dead flat and sharply rising hills/mountains in the middle of the flatness.

We drove by too many slums before arriving at our hotel in Central Santiago. We are looking forward to exploring it tomorrow but today we only had the energy for a fantastic seafood lunch at the "mercado central" - famous seafood markets before succumbing to jet lag so I am writing this at 1 am Santiago time- just couldn't keep the peepers open.

The blog will be short on visuals till we work out how to upload them but hope to sort that out soon.

Saturday, 25 January 2014

We're off!

So here we are all checked in and waiting to board. None of us can believe the day has arrived. V exciting but a few little sniffles as we say goodbye.

Friday, 24 January 2014

Get ready, get set...

1 more sleep till the Holz gals are on their way to a huge South American adventure.

Mum's adventurous spirit is taking us to Chilean Patagonia, Tierra Del Fuego to cruise around the glaciers and the Iguazu falls in Argentina.

Cath and Wen are incredibly lucky to be carrying her bags.  Thanks mum!

Tickets - check
Passports - check (Wendy's new one arrived in the nick of time)
Cameras - check
Clothes for the tropics and clothes for the glaciers - check
Cocktail frocks - check